The ignition switch lock is not hard to replace. The switch first needs to be exposed by removing the colomn area covering it. Older cars use a clip or a pin that can be pressed, that will allow the switch module to slide out. Many newer cars use a clip and a pin to slide the switch out. Many times you will need to rotate the key to a certain position for the switch to slide out. The older switches use mechanical connections to transfer the voltage from the battery to the starter and the ignition coil. Newer ignition switches use a electronic switch called a proximity sensor. The prox. sensor sees an internal metal tab and will switch the 12 volts on. The switch allows the car engine to spin over, start, then stay running.
A water pump circulates water from the engine and through the radiator to keep the engine cool. Most cars need a water pump somewhere around 120,000+ miles. Some cars like Hondas have the pump by the timing belt and some are driven off of it. These type of cars should replace the water pump at the same time the timing belt is replaced. The water pump is easy to replace in comparison to the timing belt. If not replaced, the water pump tends to die soon after replacement of the new, tighter timing belt. Many newer front wheel drive cars have the water pump on the left side of the engine. The pump is driven off an accessory belt that will need to be removed first. The belt tensioner will first have to be loosened. Many times the alternator acts as the tensioning device.
The turbo has been around for almost as long as engines themselves. Yet turbos are not in the least outdated. The turbo works as an air compressor for the engine. At 14.5 psi the turbo has doubled the amount of air going into a normally aspirated engine. The more air you can put into an engine, the more power potential the engine has. The turbo has two sides to it, one that compresses the air and the side that the exhaust gases pass through. The exhaust must pass by a cone shaped “wheel” of blades to exit the engine. As it does this it spins the wheel very fast. The exhaust side is connected by a shaft that runs to the air inlet side. This shaft is lubricated by oil that passes between the two housings. As the exhaust side spins, it turns a similar looking “wheel” called the impeller on the intake side. This side of the turbo is called the compressor.
Small engines can be purchased for many self hobby types. Places like Northern Tool are great for small engines anywhere between one horsepower to 23 horsepower engines. These engines are purchased for many projects like water pumps, go carts, homemade generators, log splitters and various other projects. Pay attention to your project before purchasing an engine. Some projects require verticle shaft engines where others need horizontal shaft engines. The engine configuration generally will not interchange with the others. You will probably need accessories also to couple the engine to whatever drive system you use. Generally the same store, such as Northern Tools, will have sprockets, and drive shaft coupling parts to connect to whatever parts and components that need to be driven. If you plan to make a go cart briggs and stratton and tecumseh both have race cart series. It would make sense to use the same engine so that you have all the same aftermarket parts available to you. If you plan to build a generator make sure the engine has a good governing system to control the engine rpms. A generator engine should be run around 3600 rpms to keep the cycles at 60 hertz as regular ac power.
Two and four stroke outboards are more similar in terms of performance and efficiency than ever before. Four strokes have become far more lightweight with more power than before. Two strokes have become far more fuel efficient while keeping their excellent power to weight ratio. Some companies such as mercury marine have produced four stroke engines with supercharging and intercooling to increase power with minimal increase in weight. Many other companies such as johnson stand firm in the belief that two strokes are still the best engine configuration to use. Most companies still offer two strokes while newer models are four stroke. All outboard companies accept the fact that the four strokes weigh slightly more. Most consumers don’t seem to mind having a little extra weight for four stroke technology that is far more common in today’s engines. Unfortunately with lightweight four stroke technology comes a hefty price tag also. People that have businesses of chartering fishing trips or that log high amounts of hours on their engines may see an advantage using a slightly more fuel efficient motor. Most boaters will never see enough of an advantage to regain the cost difference of a four stroke engine or possibly even a direct injection two stroke. The alternative being fuel injected two strokes or possibly old model carbureted engines, which are considerably cheaper initially and possibly overall.
If the engine won’t crank, you first need to verify if it’s turning over. If the engine won’t even spin, then verify that the battery cables are tight and clean. If they are not clean, use baking soda and a wire brush to clean the posts off. If the cables are good, confirm that the battery is holding a charge. You can have this checked at an auto store unless you have a load tester. Volt meters can mislead you by showing a 12+ volt reading, until the key is turned. Replace the battery if it will not hold a charge. If the battery holds a charge but still dies after starting and stopping a few times, then the alternator could be at fault. A quick test for most alternators is to take a screwdriver and carefully touch the back center of the alternator. If you touch this shaft when the car is running, it will be magnetic and the screwdriver should stick to it very well.
Recoil rope broke on your small engine? Here is a guide to repairing a lawnmower, chainsaw, outboard motor, snowmobile or weed eater recoil. The pull start assembly is usually easy to get to and will not take long to repair. Generally there are up to four screws that will need to be removed for the recoil assembly to come off. Once the housing is off you will see that the rope knot is probably still tied inside the inner housing. To make things easy try to pull the string through the hole of the recoil where it previously or still passes through. pull the rope and count how many times it turns. If you were lucky, that may be how many rotations you will need and won’t have to wind the new rope more turns. When the rope is tight see if you can stick a screwdriver all the way through the recoil slots so it won’t unwind. Slowly release the rope and make sure it won’t unwind. Carefully untie the recoil rope knot located close to center of the recoil and inline with the hole the rope passes through. When replacing the rope only use a rope made for recoils. A new general purpose recoil rope is literally only a few dollars.